Mumbai is a city full of secrets and truths and if you give her a chance, she’ll share them with you. Most of the secrets that I learnt had to do with food, a constant companion during my 10 week internship. I ate at 21 different restaurants this summer during my stay in Fort, South Mumbai. It’s a central location, which meant there were lots of restaurants that I could eat at. While I can’t tell you about all of them, I’ll tell you about three: Leopold Cafe, Yazdani Bakery, and The Sassy Spoon.
Leopold Cafe, a popular bar and cafe, has been around since 1871 and was started by Iranis (people from Iran). I first heard about it in a book called Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. Roberts had described it as a hang-out spot for Mumbai’s underworld. While it sounds very Al-Pacino-Godfather-esque, it’s not so very far from the truth: this place is frequented not only by locals and tourists but also by people engaged in clandestine business, so naturally, I decided to check it out for lunch one afternoon.
It was nothing amazing, but I enjoyed it for the ambience. Leopold is one of those restaurants that is an institution of Mumbai, like Mike’s Pastries is for Boston. The walls had posters ranging from the Beatles to Glee’s Rolling Stone cover. A plaque of the Zoroastrian founder, Zoroaster, hung next to a sign that warned against underage drinking. Shantaram sat on the reception desk. Menus lay beneath the glass covering the tables. Dishes ranged from Indian to Chinese to Mexican to traditional Mumbai food. My first time at Leopold, I got a penne arrabiata with chicken, a nice respite from the Indian food I’d been having everyday. The second time, I had Manchow Soup and Chicken in Hot Sauce Garlic with Vegetables and Bamboo Shoots. It’s like I said before, the food was enjoyable but I loved the place more for the atmosphere and the fact that it is a Mumbai landmark.
Following the Parsi culinary influence in South Mumbai, I introduce you to Yazdani. Yazdani Bakery is an Irani Cafe that opened in 1953. It’s nestled in a narrow street and you wouldn’t know it unless someone took you there, which is what happened to me. It is a very quaint bakery, though most people would not go because it looks dingy and somewhat neglected. But the food is simple and tasty. The first time I went, I ordered Apple Pie and Bread Pudding, staples in Parsi cuisine. The second time, I ordered Brun Maska and Chai (tea). Brun Maska is essentially sliced bread with not-so-small slabs of butter spread on each slice. It was too heavy for my taste, but the bread was really fresh.
The Sassy Spoon was one of the last restaurants I visited before I left Mumbai. When you go to the one in Nariman Point, you see a pink bicycle sitting on the gate that leads to the restaurant. It’s a very quirky restaurant. One wall is entirely taken up by hanging travel trunks of various sizes. All the chairs were either a baby blue or magenta.
After admiring the place, I took a look at the menu and I ordered a chicken burger. The food came with a bread basket that I munched on. Warm bread and butter is always great but dangerous before a meal. The burger eventually came with salad and french fries. The salad was odd, as it had fruit in it, but I thought, “Hey, healthy is good right?” And that burger was divine: the perfect blend of meat, tomatoes, lettuce, sauce, mayo, and cheese. The check came in a little trunk, alongside a small piece of fudge. It was delicious, and a wonderful ending to the meal, and I would love to go back with friends and family the next time I am in Mumbai.
The three restaurants I mentioned above are only a small tasting of all the wonderful spices, flavours, and foods you will find in Mumbai. Hopefully if you ever get the chance to visit Mumbai, you can visit these places and many more!